Monday, July 5, 2010

Margo and Steve's Visit: Bordeaux

Matthew and I have really been looking forward to Margo and Steve coming to visit.  Steve was one of the first friends Matthew made freshman year at Clemson, and they lived together their sophomore and senior years.  With Matthew and Steve being such great friends, I was so happy when Steve met Margo- an amazing girl that I always have such a great time with. We were so excited when they told us they wanted to come visit us in France.

The plan was for Steve and Margo to fly into Paris and take the TGV straight to Bordeaux.  Matthew and I already knew that we wanted to stay at Maureen and Jon's B&B again (Beau Sejour), and Maureen even graciously offered to pick Margo and Steve up at the train station.  Matthew and I would drive over when he got off work.  Around 11am I got a call on my cell phone from Steve, who was stuck at a train station in Paris, with all trains to Bordeaux sold out!  We changed our game plan and decided they should take a train to Clermont instead, and then we would all drive to Bordeaux together.  To do this, they had to take 2 subways to get across the city to a different train station.  Then the train they bought tickets for was an hour and half late.  By the time we picked them up at the train station in Clermont, they had been traveling for 24 hours straight (oh, and by the way, the AC was broken on the train, and without the ability to open windows, they had basically sat in a sauna for their 3 1/2 ride!).  I can't tell you how relieved I was, though, to see that they were still in great spirits and excited just to be in France when we picked them up.  And, finally, we were off to Bordeaux!

We arrived at almost midnight, and headed straight to bed.  After a great breakfast (thanks Maureen!), we headed into the city of Bordeaux.  Even though we hadn't known it when we made our plans, there just happened to be a huge wine festival going on while we were there.  We walked around the city a little, and then headed to the wine booths.  After purchasing our wine glasses and carriers, we set out.  It was definitely overwhelming with all of the different booths, where to start???  (and for those of you wondering, I did take a few small tastes, but utilized the 'spit bucket')

Breakfast at Beau Sejour- so happy to have Steve and Margo in France with us!!!
 Our beautiful bedroom (used to be a wine cellar)
Margo leaning out of their bedroom window at the B&B.


The boys looking oh-so stylish with their wine glass holders around their necks! 

After about an hour of walking around, we decided it was time for lunch and a little break from the heat.  Margo had read about a Bordeaux restaurant, La Tupina, in Bon Appétit Magazine.  The restaurant was amazing.  Completely charming and 'French' in every way.  As soon as you walk in, straight ahead is a fireplace and the chef.  Spread out in front of him are the daily meat selections, along with gorgeous produce which he uses to create the sides.  Margo, Matthew, and I all ordered the roast chicken.  Steve decided to be adventurous and ordered something called the 'black pig' (a special breed of pig raised by a dedicated farmer in the south of France).  Although our chicken was heavenly, it paled in comparison to Steve's pork, which was amazing!


Margo's first bite of roast chicken!
 Steve's amazing 'black pig'
 
After lunch, we decided that instead of continuing with the wine tasting, we would take the opportunity to drive the 55 minutes to the Atlantic Ocean and the Dune of Pyla (the largest sand dune in Europe).  Even though there were stairs to help, the climb to the top was a little intimidating.  The view from the top was worth every step though (and there was a wonderful breeze to cool us off).  
 After snapping some pictures, Steve had the bright idea of walking to the bottom so he could say he had felt the Atlantic on both sides of the ocean.  About half way down, I decided that it was best if I (with my pregnant self) started back up and waited at the top for them.  Based on the heavy breathing and Steve's sweat soaked shirt when they got back to the top, I think I made a very wise decision!  Apparently once you got to the beach, to get back up there was a very steep sand incline, and for every foot and a half they would step up, they would slide back down about a foot.  It was quite a workout!

After some very refreshing, cold showers back at the B&B we headed to dinner at Le Baron Gourmand (a restaurant Matthew and I thoroughly enjoyed during our last visit to Bordeaux).  It was a great meal with great friends.
 Margo trying fois gras for the first time.  

Sunday, we headed to the village of Saint Emilion.  Bruno (who Matthew and I went horseback riding with last time) set up 2 tastings at chateaus near the village.  Before the first tasting, we had about an hour to walk around and ooh-and-ah over how charming Saint Emilion is.  

To get to the first chateau, we walked down a really neat road that was bordered by a stone wall on both sides.  On the other side of the stone walls were vineyards and chateaus as far as the eye could see.  

Our tasting at Chateau le Chatelet, was with about 10 other people, but our 'guide' Patrick, was great at giving the four of us a lot of details about the history of the chateau as well as the wine.  He also opened 2 bottles just for Margo after hearing which wines she liked so far (I think he had a little crush...).  The tasting included everything from older wines, to wines that had been bottled 2 weeks ago, and finally, Patrick took the cork off one of the barrels and pulled wine straight from the barrel.  We were the last ones left at the chateau after everyone from the other group had bought their wine and left.  Patrick told us we were his last tasting of the day, so he gave us 3 opened bottles (one of which was a 70 euro bottle!).  The tasting took longer than expected, so we called to cancel the 2nd tasting and headed back to Saint Emilion for lunch and to walk around some more.  
Chateau le Chatelet has gorgeous vineyards, with the village of Saint Emilion as a backdrop.
Baby Grapes!
 The wine growers in Bordeaux grow roses at the end of each row of vines. Since roses are more susceptible to disease, if the roses are hit with something, it is a warning of what could attack the vines.  (Plus, it is just beautiful!)  
Walking back to Saint Emilion with our wine purchases!
    
After a great day in Saint Emilion, we drove back to Clermont-Ferrand.  We decided to walk into town and take Margo and Steve to our favorite creperie restaurant, 1513.  Another great meal!

Much more of our visit with Steve and Margo to come...Auvergne, Nimes, Nice, Provence's lavender fields, and Lyon...

1 comment:

Senegal Daily said...

I remember walking (hiking!) up that dune when I was four years old! So cool to see these pictures of it.

Looking forward to your Lyon post!